Once upon a Monday afternoon my friends Barbara Lee, Daniel and I headed off in a perky little taxi to the airport to begin our venture into the southern part of our province, a chance to visit friends, explore a new area of Borneo and hopfully combine this with a relaxing escape to a tropical island, soaking in the sun and forgetting our cares…or so we thought.
Like good Westerners we arrived at the airport plenty early- so early that Daniel and I opted for a Foot Reflexology, conveniently located right by our terminal. Of course, there are only 2 terminals at our local airport, but still, it was a little taste of bliss for our feet.
We happily boarded our shiny plane for a short flight to a little town in the south of Kalimantan, eagerly anticipating our beachy holiday. Armed with only our backpacks, we were travelling light. We settled in, the propellers were whirling, the engines roaring… and then they hummed to a halt. Requested to de-plane, we grabbed our packs and re-entered the waiting room. We should have guessed right then that this vacation would not go as planned. We heard the announcement that our plane was changed to tomorrow over a game of Golf. The right wing/ propeller was broken, needing serious repair.
Tuesday
5:30 the next morning we were off again in an equally small taxi. This time we uneventfully boarded and landed in the bushy little town. What a darling little place! It reminded me a bit of Papua, more rugged and bush than our own trimmed and paved city. Drivers called out, “taxi, taxi, taxi?” with hopefulness in their voices. Then, “ojek, ojek, ojek?!” (hired motorcycles) Then chuckling to themselves, “becak, becak?!” (there were no becaks within 50 miles of there!) (a becak is like a rickshaw- bicycle powered transport) Shortly our jaunty Jeep rounded the corner, commandeered by capable Tim.
We met the rest of the Ullums at the nice new hotel there- very impressive!! We piled into the Jeep, already covered in mud from their trip out of the tribe, and headed on the road, “Off to the beach!” To our beautiful, tropical paradise. Tim, Andrea and the 2 little girls squished in front and the 3 of us sat in back, back packs comfortable wedged here and there. About 40 minutes in we hear eeeuuuuurrrrr and Tim, “It’s the clutch”. The clutch was shot. So, back to town we hobble, trying not to shift gears much. The Jeep already can’t go into first so we clip along in 2nd. Tim regales us with tales of the time he lost his breaks- almost killing whatever happened to be alongside the road. Actually, he did kill a dog! He was only saved by his aggressive use of the horn.
To kill time while the Jeep was getting a clutch job, and consequently, the headlights fixed, we snooped around the local grocer, gathering necessary drinks and snacks to hold us over. We stumbled upon the regions “Bird’s Nest” drinks. It was actually only “bird’s nest flavored”- what ever that means! Bought a few just for kicks. Still haven’t gotten up the nerve to try it.
An hour later we again loaded ourselves and our supplies in to our “trusty” Jeep and were off again- with hope in our hearts. The clutch was fixed. And the headlights too- but in fixing the headlights, the horn no longer functioned! We hoped the breaks would hold out!!
After about an hour’s travel we started smelling something. Bread? Rice? Restaurant? Nope! The engine! Tim popped out, opened the lid and steam just poured out. Andrea called out: “Should we get out?!” Tim: “No, we’re fine”. Due to the complicated nature of fixing this unknown problem, we did all end up piling out. We ended up making friends with the locals, for it took a while to get on the road again. The inhabitants of the little kampung were curious and friendly. I especially enjoyed chatting with Ratna- a little quintessential Indonesian Momma. She was a rice farmer by trade, married to a fisherman who was inside mending his nets. Togther they had four children. That little family in their shiny wood home made their living by eating her rice and selling his fish. After many men had descended and lent a helping hand, or word of advice, Tim decided it needed professional help. So we climbed back in and our tired Jeep hobbled back to the nearest town, radiator leaking like a sieve. Us ladies feasted on nasi (rice) and the men took the Jeep to the bengkel (mechanic shop).
A few tightened bolts later we slowly piled in, a bit hotter and wearier than at the outset, but tentatively happy to be on the road again. Maybe we would yet see the beach today?! Not 20 minutes later though the leak had sprung again and we once more spilled out to meet some new roadside friends. I walked with Abby to keep her entertained, Andrea jiggled a feverish and testy Dina while Daniel and Tim put their brains together to figure out what to do. Water was fetched and poured in, and promptly leaked out again. Phone calls were made to bengkels and eventually, after what seemed like hours we- sunburned and all of us verging on whiny now decide to just ditch the Jeep and try to find ojeks to the beachside town. Just when all ideas were exhausted and hope was lost, the driver of the truck that had been parked nearby realized our plight, bounded over and offered ideas and more importantly, a lift! He took Andrea, Abby and Barb in the truck with him- his daughters graciously riding in the flatbed with the 2×4s while Tim, a still sick Dina, Daniel and I got pulled along the last 16 km in the Jeep.
Hotel Agung “The Great Hotel” might have otherwise been a pretentious name for such a modest establishment but to us, it was great- baths, clean beds, fans to cool us, and breakfast in the morning- ahhh!
Before baths and bed, though, to soothe our travel weary bodies we actually ended up at the beach! Ullum’s Chinese friend Al and family who just happened to be visiting relatives in the area let us pile in with them for a ride to the beach. Daniel and Tim took ojeks to the villages’s sandy shores. Oh blessed beach! We thought we’d never see you!! We practically skipped into the water- it was delicious lapping coolly against our worn out bods. While the girls splish-splashed in the shallows Daniel, Barbara and I decided, in our euphoria, to swim to the nearby island. It was not too lofty a goal, except for the unseen existence of something in the water- jellyfish/ sea lice/ spiny stinging coral- who really knows. All we know is that halfway into our ambitious swim we were stinging and itchy all over our poor weary bodies. In surrender we threw up our hands and our plans and headed for shore as fast as our stinging limbs could carry us. Later, talking to Cam it seemed that yes there were rare occurrences of jellyfish, but in all his years there he’s only been stung once. So- what are we to presume? A rare migration, occurring maybe every 10 years, of an even rarer species of unseen jelly stingers just happened to migrate to our beach this day? This doomed day? Yep, highly likely, considering the events of the day. As we came to the shore, escaping the infested water it started to rain! We three looked at each other and exclaimed, “Of course!” Thankfully us ladies got a ride back to the hotel with Al. The poor guys had to walk back- 45 minutes in the pouring rain. Yep, naturally.
That night, hungry and tired we assumed our hotel didn’t offer food, so we foolishly sought sustenance in at the neighboring warung makan (retaurant). Old tough kampung chicken (country chicken- known for being tastier) and odd tasting ox foot soup- with chewy pieces of foot floating in it was the best they could offer. Oh- to bed! To bed! Let this day end!
Wednesday
After plans changed 50 million times due to mechanical Jeep and feverish Dina issues, we all ended up piling in Cam’s car for our big day out. Cam the biologist was the one who recommended this tropical island, he was, maybe, the reason we all were in this little town in the middle of nowhere, eating oxfoot soup and searching for the perfect equatorial getaway.
Now, we were excited! For we were going to an “untouched by tourists” tropical island, complete with snorkeling!! Our minds filled with images of all the stress of yesterday melting away as we bobbed in the water or lazed on the wide sandy beaches. Little did we know that what was to greet us after the hour+ deafening boat ride was an island left untouched for a reason. Note to self: when a biologist recommends a place- ask more questions! This no-beach-in-sight, rocky coasted, bug infested island was surrounded by oddly brown (not the hoped for aquamarine) water, old dead looking coral and of course, those flesh stinging creatures that had plagued us the day before!! We did, however, spot a little brown octopus! That was definitely cool!
Our flesh tingling from bravely exploring what coral there was to see, and with nothing else to do, we swatted bugs, ate our pb&j’s on the tarp we had spread over the rocky shore, laughed hard about our predicament and piled back into the boat for a sun-baked hour back home- to our now “beloved” sandy, wide, kid-friendly beach. “Why oh why did we ever leave this beautiful beach?”, we asked ourselves.
We blissfully splish splashed in the sunny surf. Of course, it did rain, but only for a short bit. Nothing could hinder our joy upon finding out that yes, the Jeep truly was fixed, by a mechanic that had driven all the way from the big town 2 hours away. Oh the joys! Fresh mandi’s (cold dipper baths) helped brighten our spirits too. That night we realized our hotel did in fact have fresh food, so we didn’t stray far for supper, but dined on fresh nasi, tender(er) chicken and of course copious amounts of jus jeruk (orange juice- which we’re pretty sure the headmistress now remembers us by). We shared much laughter as we retold the various events of the trip. Ah, humor has a way of soothing the sores caused by hard, unexpected events.
Thursday
It was time to wrap up our jolly holiday. We again boarded into the now familiar Jeepy-poo and bumped our way to a quiet riverside town. And I do mean bumped! The road was nicely paved for about ½ of the way and then it got a bit rough. Dirt roads plus rain plus big heavy trucks daily equals a heavily rutted muddy challenge that thankfully, our newly fixed Jeep was only too eager to tackle.
We arrived at the docks and immediately became the center of attention- or more like the girls did. So though it was tight, we stayed inside the relative safety of our mobile. It was at that point we started to feel like monkeys in a zoo. Daniel declared, “Well, as long as they throw in some nasi now and then, I’m ok.”
We then began the next portion of our journey. We boarded the big slow ferry to ensure a spot to sit, not knowing if the Jeep and Tim would make it. Mixed stories and with no one seeming to be in charge, we waited 2 hours before of not knowing we got the word: the Jeep could board and all 7 of us were headed home!!
We started out cheerily enough- claimed our space on the little sleeping deck, got out the snacks. Then, of all things, loud Dangdut (traditional/ dancing type of music, very popular among certain crowds) karaoke began! Various men took turns singing into a mic- entertaining themselves and the other Indonesian passengers. Then the with a flap the tarps went down on the sides of the boat, keeping the fresh air out and trapping in the exhaust they were piping into the passenger cabin. Rather reminiscent of what the Jews must have felt, I think. The floor got harder and more uncomfortable as the hours plodded on. The highlights definitely were the funny movie played and the simple beauty of a shrub filled shoreline along the banks of the river. **
15 long hours later we arrived in our home town’s blessed harbor. And still we were 1 hour from home! A 7 am stop at Dunkin’ Donuts gave proper nourishment and comfort to our Western souls. Within ½ hour we were home, practically kissing the floors of our tiled, clean city houses. Thankful for the new bonds of friendship, laughter, memories and experiences, but unspeakably grateful it was over!
We all agreed to file this trip under “Orientation” rather than “Vacation”.
** My night was made additionally miserable by the onset of the flu or some such bug, or could it have been carbon monoxide poisoning(?). Throwing up over the rail, sleeping huddled under a sarong on top of a red wooden chest and then in a cramped corner was less than ideal, shall we say. All I wanted was a clean American bathroom to curl up in. And still we had 6 hours to go. Oh what a night!
Naomi Christenson Just another weblog 






